The Nullarbor 6/4/12 - 14/4/12

THE NULLARBOR

Following the main road north out of the Eyre Peninsula we passed through Ceduna which is the gateway to the Nullarbor. Nullarbor means 'no tree' (null-arbor). We thought this was an aboriginal name so we were surprised that it is, actually, a latin word. The Nullarbor is the long stretch of road, about 1,200 kms in length, which crosses from one side of the Great Australian Bight to the otherside.


We didn't think much of Ceduna (start of the Nullarbor) as it seemed a bit run down. It had a depressed feeling about it. We were advised not to stay at the caravan park in the town as it was surrounded by a high protective fence with barbed wire around the top so we stayed at a caravan park (Shelley Beach) a few kms out of the town. We didn't want to free camp around this area. The caravan sites here were well spaced apart but it was a very dusty place as there was no grass and it was windy. We were fortunate to get in as it was Good Friday Eve.

We were pleased to leave Ceduna on Good Friday morning and set off towards the Nullarbor and cross the Great Australian Bight. Quite exciting. As we had a strong cross wind from the south we didn't travel too far, only 90kms, stopping at a rest area. As we didn't get to church that day we had our own service in the caravan, with Nigel reading the Easter story and delivering a message (after which he feel asleep. Reading makes him sleepy). There was interaction and discussion from Carol being the sole member of the congregation, a captive audience as there were too many flies outside!!

We did a side trip out to the coast to see Fowlers Bay as it had been recommended by a couple of people. To get there we had to drive over a dirt road, very rough and corrugated for 14 kms. Probably wasn't worth the trip out. Just a little town on the beach with huge sand hills behind which are gradually encroaching on the town. Tried a different route out but this time it was 31 kms dirt road, slightly better. Never again. 4WD needed.

Road out of Eucla

The road across is as good a road as we have travelled on. Very smooth, no cracking or pot holes patched up. We didn't find the drive boring at all. As we only drove around 150-200kms a day we took 7 days to get across. It can be done a lot quicker, even done in 1-2 days. Apart from the road-trains, the majority of the traffic was caravans and campervans travelling east and west.

Change in vegetation

Eucla was a small township just over the border. Food can be bought at cafe, restaurant but we didn't see any sign of a grocery store except the roadhouse. The Eucla Telegraph station was opened here in 1877 which helped link Western Australia with the rest of Australia and the world. Ruins of the station can still be seen today a few kms out of the town. The Bureau of Meteroloogy is based here and sends weather balloons up. That was something Carol wanted to see but we forgot when we were there.











 There is a quarantine station at Border Town as we crossed from South Australia into Western Australia. Here you have to surrender any fruit and vegetables if you have any. We did cook up some remaining fruit and vegetables the day before so they wouldn't go to waste. The trouble is, after Border Town, there is no where to replenish fruit and veges until you reach the town of Norseman, over 700 kms away.
We were travelling from east to west and fortunate to have light winds most of the way, apart from the first day. The strength and direction of the wind can have an impact on the fuel consumption. Much of the time we had south easterlies which meant we had a tail wind. The predominant wind is usually from the west so we were fortunate to have tail wind most of the way.

Duriong the months of May to October up to 170 southern right whales are often seen right along the coast of the Great Australian Bight. Unfortunately we were travelling at the wrong time. There are various viewing platforms to ensure fantastic views of them. Maybe another time.



Unusal sight at the bowser

For 7 days we had no way of communicating with the outside world as there is no mobile phone or computer coverage at all and even getting a radio station was limited reception. Also you need to be aware of distances between roadhouses so that you don't run out of fuel, which by the way is very expensive. We filled up at the cheapest points and just topped up with the minimum amount at the most expensive locations. The dearest being $2.04 per litre. We didn't realise that there was virtually nothing in the way of groceries available at the roadhouses and no water to fill the water tanks so for a week we had to be very sparing with food and water.



Bunda cliffs

Camping on top of cliffs

Along the Nullarbor is Australia's longest straight road which is 146 kms without a bend or a curve. The coastal scenery is fantastic. Heading off the main highway, a kilometer or two, to the edge of the cliffs are spectacular views which face the Great Aust. Bight. Great swells roll in crashing against the base of the 90m high cliffs (Bunda Cliffs). During the year between May and October whales can be seen from various scenic lookouts along the top of the cliffs. These cliffs stretch unbroken for 200kms.

cyclist sitting low down and peddling

Along the route we came across various sights on the road. We saw several cyclists, one being low down and also couldn't believe our eyes when we saw a young man skate boarding (he did have a support vehicle with him). A few days later we did hear him being interviewed on the radio and found out he was fund raising for a worthy cause. The radio announcer happened to be driving along the Nullarbor about the same time as us and saw this young man too. We also passed a big burnt out truck and lots of road kill. This was the first time we had seen so many dead animals on one stretch of road. Good thing we didn't drive at night time.

A new Australian attraction is the 'Nullarbor Links' which is an 18 hole par-72 golf course stretching between Ceduna and Kalgorlie, a distance of 1,365 kms. The score cards cost $70 and their is a dress code applicable. Must have shoes, long trousers (no denim) and a collared shirt. (There is a challenge for you to do someday, Stephen). Cards are collected at either Kalgorlie or Ceduna and stamped at every hole played. The holes and fairways are located at various towns and roadhouses along the route, e.g. Nullarbor roadhouse 'Dingo's Den' par-5 - 538m.

No shower tent needed

On our trip across we stopped overnight mainly at bush camps which are rest areas located at various intervals right across the Nullarbor, and there were plenty to choose from. Sometimes we lit a fire which was great trying to cook the damper we made when we ran out of bread. 



flies (ahh!!)

We did, however, stop at the roadhouse in Nundroo at the beginning and Fraser Range Station near the end. The roadhouse was a typical outback type roadhouse, barren and dusty,  not one blade of grass to be seen except on the small patch of artificial grass on the golf green. 



Nundroo Roadhouse

Nundroo caravan park



It was great getting to Fraser Range Station where there was water and electricity, meaning washing could be done. This is a cattle station which over the years have built up camping facilities. The March flies were very bad here and have a very nasty bite (just as bad as mozzies). We put up with lots of flies across the Nullarbor but March flies were the worst. The other flies got in your ears, up your nose and in your eyes and are very annoying but at least they didn't bite. Because of the flies we were kept captive in the caravan as it was too unpleasant to sit outside and for those flies that got inside we spent the next few minutes swatting to get rid of them. It does help to fill in the evening swatting flies before going to bed.

We met a group of ladies travelling all together going west, the same way as us. Six ladies in 5 different RV's. The thing that amazed us the most was that they were in their 70's and 80's, the oldest being 82 and driving here own van. They all lived in Newcastle and were widowed so decided to do a trip around the country together. It must annoy the trucks trying the pass the convoy. We caught up with them at one of the bush camps and they kindly let Carol take their photo as she thought it was fantastic they were out and about doing this sort of thing at the ages they were.

These camels constructed by corrugated iron are located on a roundabout in Norseman and represent the important place camels had in the development of this area of Australia.    Arriving at Norseman, at the western end of the Nullarbor, we headed straight for the IGA supermarket to stock up.

We enjoyed the Nullarbor experience very much and didn't find it boring at all as some people say it is.