Bourke to Broken Hill 2/2/12 - 13/2/12

COBAR

From Bourke we travelled 160kms south to Cobar, another mining town. Copper, lead, silver and gold was mined here and dates back to the 1870s, when copper was first discovered. Mining is still being done today in an open cut gold mine.

Looking down into open cut mine

Miner's Memorial,
cobar

When we left  Cobar we travelled 65kms west towards Wilcannia and stopped for the night at a rest area beside the highway

Fantastic rest area

We were now in the red dirt area (as can be seen in the photo). Lots of places to choose from at this rest area. Quite a popular stop for people overnight. It was here we met Ron, a 78 yr old man, who was travelling around the country by himself. I think he was quite happy to have our company. We didn't have radio, mobile phone or computer connections (plus no electricity), so it was very quiet and peaceful, with nothing much to do but read and relax. While here we got up at 3.30am to see the brilliant starry night. As there were no lights or moon that night, the sky was spectacular. We decided to stay here 2 nights. Why not, as there is no time schedule.

The weather from Bourke onwards has been beautiful not too hot 25-30 deg, blue skies and cooling off at night.

We moved from this rest area to another one 142kms up the road. It had a lovely childrens playground there  (would have loved this when we were travelling with our children for years up to the Gold Coast). These areas seem to be fairly well maintained even though they are a couple of hundred kms from the nearest town. Stayed here a night before moving on to White Cliffs. Ron, our new friend, was going there also, so we travelled together. We went via Wilcannia, a place we were advised not to stay at. Wilcannia was a bustling, thriving inland port on the Darling River back in the late 1800's, early 1900's. The township used to have 15 hotels and a population of 3,000. It is now a small, mainly aboriginal, town with remnants of it's past still standing.

WHITE CLIFFS

From Wilcannia we drove 100kms north to White Cliffs. The caravan park was empty when we arrived and with a $15 fee per night was good value. It was clean and tidy, with a swimming pool next door, which was welcome, as it was very hot (silver coin donation). Wonderful!!

White Cliffs caravan park (empty)

Carol had an interesting experience with a green frog the first night there. After using the toilet and flushing she was shocked to see a little frog trying to cling hold of the inside of the bowl to stop being washed down with the flush, but was quite relieved to see it disappear down the toilet. She flushed the toilet again to make sure it had gone for good. It must have been under the rim of the toilet all along. The next morning an inspection was made and there he was sitting on top of the toilet seat. Consequently that toilet wasn't used again. The next day, Nigel found it in the mens toilet block.

Underground house dug out into side of hill

Underground opal shop

White Cliffs is a town quite different to anywhere we have been to before. It is another opal mining town but unusual as most of it's inhabitants live undergound in the remains of old mines, called dugouts. A few opal shops, motel and art galleries are also underground. Because of the fierce, summer temperatures, which made surface living unbearable, people made their homes underground where the temperature remains at a constant 22-25 deg.

There are about 50,000 mine diggings which give the area a lunar like appearance. Here we did some fossicking, hoping to find the big one and make it rich. Carol gave up after 5 mins and started walking back while Ron and Nigel found a few interesting rocks which amounted to nothing. What a shame!!!

Fossicking        

Inside one of mines

Mine diggings

We had a really interesting tour of the underground motel, 34 rooms. Many people stay in this motel just for the experience. It is very quiet and cool. Even though Carol is a bit claustrophic, she didn't feel enclosed. It certainly was different, as no windows of course. Each room has a ventilaltion shaft going up to the surface.

Motel bedroom

Ventilation shaft (not drop toilet)

It was certainly worth a side trip up to White Cliffs.. We think it is called White Cliffs as there are 3 small hills surrounding the township and they have white stonelike cliffs on them.

Top of hill above the motel

This time of the year, there are only about 80 people in the town, which goes up to about 200 in the Winter season. The primary school has about 10 children. We spent 2 days here and only one other caravan arrived in that time. We realise that we are travelling out-of-season as all the caravan parks are fairly empty and there is no need to book ahead. Most people travel through this part of the country between March to October because generally the temperature is quite high outside of this time. We haven't had this experience at all, even though we were expecting it, and not looking forward to it. As we have kept saying and other people who live in the areas, that the weather we have been having is most unusual at this time of the year, and it is looking so green. Normally, it is dry and very dusty, with lots of dust storms. Not this year, though.

After leaving White Cliffs, we stopped at another rest area for a couple of nights, also without any power. We wanted to delay getting to Broken Hill too soon as it was Nigel's 60th birthday on Saturday, 11th February. At this rest area there was even separate ladies and gents pit toilets. There seems to be a new system they are using so they are a lot more people friendly. Quite a number of caravans stopped here also.


rest area from hill across the road (isolated)



toilet (ladies and gents)












Before arriving in Broken Hill, we passed through the Fruit Fly Zone and had to dump any fruit or veges we had not used. We were told we would be checked and fined if any were found. We thought this wouldn't happen until we went through the border to South Australia, but found there is quite a big zone area beforehand.  This was all new to us.

BROKEN HILL

We found Broken Hill a fascinating place, full of history, centered around it's mining hereitage. We rode our bikes all around Broken Hill. We visited places of interest.

The Silver City Mint and Art Centre is home to 'The Big Picture', the world's largest acrylic painting on canvas 12m x 100m, which forms a circle around the walls of a large room. You view this by walking out on to a platform into the middle and you are surrounded by various outback scenes particular to the area. It took 2 years to paint. Unfortunately we were unable to take photos in here. This is where Nigel got his first 'Seniors' discount as we mentioned it was his 60th birthday the next day.

Slag Heap in background with Cafe and Memorial on top

Site of 1st BHP office

Honey I shrunk the parents (The Big Seat)

BHP (Broken Hill Proprietory Ltd) originated in Broken Hill back in 1885 mining iron ore. We rode our bikes around the huge slag heap and visited the place where the first BHP office was located. Only remnants of a chimney still stand today. On top of the slag heap is now a cafe and memorial to over 800 miners killed while working in the mines from the 1800's up to the present day.



sculptures on top of hill

Another special attraction was visiting the Living Desert Sculptures at sunset, located on a hill a few kilometers out of the City. The evening was perfectly calm and warm. It was quite special being there at twilight. Ron came with us and enjoyed the evening.

famous sculpture with sun setting through it

Saturday, 11th February, was a special day as it was Nigel's 60th birthday. The day started with a special cooked breakfast. Later we drove to Silverton, a fairly isolated small town 25kms out of Broken Hill. (Less chance of anyone springing a surprise party). Silverton grew up in the late 1800's due to mining. Today it is more like a ghost town with only 50 inhabitants, but it is very popular with the tourists who come to visit as it has become famous through being featured in more than 100 films and commercials, i.e. 'A Town like Alice', 'Priscilla Queen of the Desert', 'Mad Max II'.

We had a great birthday lunch at the Cafe there, which is also like a museum. It houses lots of historic memorabilia. The food was superb and at such a reasonable price. Worth going out there for that alone. To end the day we went to a picnic area at a reservoir and enjoyed a lovely birthday picnic tea, celebrating with a bottle of wine Nigel was given by some clients of his and was told to open it in Silverton. It was a lovely evening and a nice way to finish the day. Viewed the Mundi Mundi plains which were so flat you could see the horizon in a 180 deg span.  

When will he grow up

Icon of Silverton used in films and commercials

On our way back we did see some wild life, a camel, (these are used for camel rides in Silverton during the peak season), emus and a live snake on the road. It didn't want to move and we weren't too keen to get out and coax it off the road. Hopefully it survived.







Sunday morning we visited the Salvation Army at Broken Hill which was the birth place of Arthur Gullidge (famous composer) who was captured, along with his military bandsmen, by the Japanese. On the way to Japan, the ship they were being transported on, was torpedoed by an American warship and was sunk with all lives lost.

Broken Hill Caravan park

On our last day in Broken Hill we said farewell to Ron as were going in different directions. We might bump into him again somewhere down the track as we are both heading to Western Australia.                                                                                         

Our next destination is Wentworth/Mildura and then into South Australia (Murray River region). We are really enjoying the travelling and having a lot of fun. Time is going very fast. 

                                            

TO BE CONTINUED (hopefully not too long)